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Recipe for high heat casting plaster fir glass
Recipe for high heat casting plaster fir glass









recipe for high heat casting plaster fir glass
  1. #Recipe for high heat casting plaster fir glass update#
  2. #Recipe for high heat casting plaster fir glass crack#

Hopefully, I’m able to give you a tip that will save you a lot of time, effort, and dust.

#Recipe for high heat casting plaster fir glass crack#

He says it does not crack and can be scored with a knife and snapped (I have not tried it):

#Recipe for high heat casting plaster fir glass update#

Update September 2017: My local fitter (and a few others I have met) has started using Multi-pro board and swears by it saying it is “much better than Hardiebacker”. Other lining products include Supalux, Skamolex, or Glasroc FireCase. I have not used it but a stovefitter I know uses it all the time to line recesses. I have done this on back walls a few times when the fire has been close (stops you seeing spider cracks -)Īnother product is Thermalux (). If you are after perfection then you might wish to add a layer of thin steel (1-2mm) to the Hardiebacker as a final and paintable surface. I have heard that compressed Vermiculite board (about an inch thick) is far better but it is very expensive and thick (reduces width of recess maybe too much). Cracks will usually be minor and can be repaired with Decorator’s Caulking. This is more likely on the rear wall (where stoves are often 3″ or 4″ away from the wall). Note that you can get spider cracks in Hardiebacker (if if your stove is closer than 6″). Hardiebacker say it is fine for up to 100 degrees centigrade (it will not set on fire but can crack). HardieBacker® 12mm cement backerboard is CE approved and BBA certified since May 2004. HardieBacker® 12mm cement backerboard is fire rated class A1, meaning the product is non-combustible. HardieBacker® 12mm cement backerboard (previously named HardieBacker®500) has been evaluated in accordance with the protocols and acceptance criteria of EN 12467 and was found to be compliant. There is an even lazier method and you might even avoid any plastering! Hardiebacker paints fine same as plastered surfaces. We’ll see if it cracks! Update: it did! Paint directly onto these un-plastered Hardiebacker-returns same as the rest of the chimney breast. I actually recommend NOT plastering the return as plaster can crack under high heat (I forgot to tell the plasterer this). It might also be called the "it is too dark to see how crappy the surface is" method.Įssentially one just plasterboards the front of the chimney breast and adds a little "return" into the recess (using 12mm Hardiebacker for just the return as this is where the real heat is). Admittedly it is a small recess so not much gap to peer into and it is very dark in there. The inside of the recesses I sprayed in black stove paint and, by the time the stove was in, the recess cannot even be seen due it being dark. This is actually in my house (in “the snug” and in the lounge). It looks surprisingly effective and fits the architectural “honesty’ box. The following pics show the lazy-bod method.

recipe for high heat casting plaster fir glass

It might be worth reading all of this article before deciding. There are also a couple of "lazy methods" that are surprisingly effective. You might choose to render the brickwork or go the whole hog (where did that phrase come from must check…) and make smooth with board for that perfect look. keep the stone or brickwork), filling any deep holes with mortar and maybe adding a lick of paint (brickwork can look very good painted with a few coats of emulsion). Do NOT use plasterboard of any kind inside the recess, even the pink fire-resistant stuff, as this is not allowed: plasterboard is not officially non-combustible (plasterboard is okay on chimney breast though).īefore we get stuck in, there are various ways of making the inside of your builder’s opening look like something other than a dark, soot-stained hole in the wall.

recipe for high heat casting plaster fir glass

If you are going to line the inside of a fireplace (rather than render or just paint) then you’ll be using some kind of fireproof lining-board. The fitting of the stove, focussing more on the closure plate, is outlined in more detail in a separate article that you should read after reading this article (closure plate is fitted after lining the sides and rear of your fireplace): Wood burning stove in a fireplace connected to a chimney liner The " closure plate" (the roof above the stove that blocks off the chimney) is an important part of this process. This article deals with the smooth lining of a fireplace recess.











Recipe for high heat casting plaster fir glass